“The first question is free,” Erik always jokes to those who see our loaded bicycles and ask about the journey. This time, we had them stacked against a picnic table in the middle of Valdez. As I chopped peppers, it seemed the whole town was coming by to talk to us. These three who stopped to chat, work at a fish cannery at the port. Mike’s a fellow bike tourist who has ridden the west coast a few times. Knowing all too well about our ravenous appetites, he later walked out of a nearby cafe with a humongous brownie and fruit bar for us.